From
the Warmiwañuska pass starts a descent through a rough
path around which it is possible to perceive the slow formation
of a stream that in the bottom of the small valley is named
Pakaymayu (Hidden River). By the bottom of the valley the
trail is visible without reaching the thick vegetation; this
is another of the recommended campsites, over 3600 mts. (11800
ft.).
By the middle of the descent and on the left side there is
another genuine ancient paved trail that follows almost horizontally
on the mountainside surpassing another pass to go down then
into the Aobamba Valley; it is necessary to follow an abandoned
trail and further away towards the right hand is Sayaqmarka.
That last way is not recommendable because the trail is abandoned
and in some sectors it disappeared by the effect of natural
erosion; it is not used and it has no maintenance, thus it
offers many dangers.
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From the campsite
in Pakaymayu starts another climb towards Runkuraqay;
this time the hike is over a trail paved with flagstones
that offers a lot of safety specially in rainy days.
Runkuraqay is by the middle of the way up and has
an ovoid shape; possibly the name with which it was
baptized by one of Bingham's native guides in 1915
was "Runturaqay" (Egg-shaped Inclosure).
The walls of its buildings are of the "pirka"
type. Because of its location and the layout of its
rooms, it seems that it served as a "tambo"
(lodge for travelers); this is another possible campsite.
Continuing the climb through the cobbled stairway,
on the trail's left side there is a very small lagoon
called Yanaqocha ("Black Lake"), on the
right side and on an upper level is another one having
the same size |
. In this zone occasionally it is possible to see Guemals
or Tarucas (Hippocamelus antisensis) that come down in order
to drink water, and Mountain Vizcachas (Lagidium Peruvianum).
Inside the Machupicchu Historic Sanctuary it is also possible
to find species such as the Puma or Mountain Lion (Felis concolor),
Andean Cats (Felis jacovita), Ocelots (Felis pardalis), Hog-nosed
Skunks (Conepatus rex), South-American Foxes (Dusicyon culpaeus),
White Tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus), Tanka or Dwarf
Brocket Deer (Mazama Chunyi) -endangered specie-, Weasels
(Mustela frenata), Pudus (Pudu mephistophiles), Tayras (Eyra
barbara), Amazon Otters (Luthra incarum), Spectacled Bears
(Tremarctos ornatus) -endangered specie-; among the main birds
are the Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus), K'illichu or Sparrow
Hawk (Falco sparverius), Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis), Torrents
Duck (Merganetta arnata), Cu-cu (Momotus momota), Quien-quien
(Cyanocorax inca), Cuvier's Toucan (Ramphastos cuvieri), Chiguanco
(Turdus chiguanco), Razor-billed Curassow (Crax mitu), Chinalinda
(Phalacoboenus albogularis), Andean Gull (Larus serranus),
Yanavico (Plegadis ridwayi), Cock of the Rock (Rupicola Peruviana)
-endangered specie-. More over, there are vipers, lizards,
diverse amphibious, butterflies and insects, etc., etc. If
you decide to go into the undisturbed forest, far away from
the trail, be aware of some dangers like finding lethal snakes
such as the bushmaster (Lachesis muta) or the viperine fer-de-lance
(Bothrops atrox) which possesses a virulent venom that is
destructive of tissue destroying blood cells and mucous membranes
as well.
At the end of the climb is the second highest spot named Runkuraqay
Pass, over 3900 mts. (12800 ft.). From this pass starts another
steep descent towards Sayaqmarka. By the middle of the way
down, and on the right side there is another interesting green
colored lagoon having a lot of algae, it is known as Q'omer-qocha
(Green Lake).
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Sayaqmarka
is an archaeological group located over 3500 mts.
(11500 ft.) and was explored by Bingham's expedition
in 1915 which native guides named it "Cedrobamba"
("Cedropanpa" = Plain of cedars). By the
end of 1941 a Viking Fund expedition headed by Paul
Fejos explored the area and rebaptized it as "Sayaqmarka"
(Steep Spot) considering its geographic location almost
by the end of a mountain spur that dominates visually
the Aobamba valley. |
In this complex there are different constructions that are
somewhat intricate because of having been adapted to the rough
mountain shape; in spite of the difficult environment there
is also an aqueduct capriciously carved on the mountain crest,
fountains that seem to have had a ritual purpose, narrow streets,
a semi-ovoid dominant building, etc. Because of the area where
it is located, this site must had a duty almost strictly administrative
and ceremonial; perhaps for management of the territory and
the nearby roads. Thus, it is possible that it could have
been inhabited by soldiers, state officials, and priests,
who were not farmers as there are no farmlands around. Normally
this site has little maintenance, therefore, occasionally
one may encounter vipers or some other animals; more over,
around here there are almost always large amounts of very
small biting mosquitoes called "manta blanca" (white
blanket) that are almost invisible but they exist by the millions
and have good resistance against repellents. This is another
place that serves as campsite. Near Sayaqmarka, on the right
side of the trail there is another building that must had
a close relationship with the "Steep Spot", it is
Qonchamarka (Cooking Stove Spot) which is also built with
"pirka" type walls, its original duty is unknown.
From Sayaqmarka departs a somewhat abrupt trail towards Machupicchu,
and very few kilometers away is a short humid and swampy plain
named Chakilqocha (it should be "Ch'aki Qocha" =
Dry Lake) that is often used as a campsite. Farther away,
continuing on the trail carefully paved with flagstones, there
is a wide and comfortable tunnel carved in the mountain rock;
it is about 20 mts. (66 ft.) long and has carved steps, walls
and floor. Advancing through the comfortable trail the traveler
gains altitude in order to get to Phuyupatamarka that is found
over 3680 mts. (12070 ft.). Likewise, that archaeological
group was "discovered" by Bingham in 1915 who named
it as "Qoriwayrachina". But, in 1941 Paul Fejos
and his expedition rebaptized the site with the name of "Phuyupatamarka"
(Spot over the clouds), because it is almost always over the
clouds and mist formed in the valleys around. It is placed
in a space that dominates visually a broad territory and must
have been an important religious and administrative core.
Its features include a superior almost ovoid platform, aligned
fountains that must had a religious duty with well-disposed
channels and water that is still flowing; very well carved
stairways, rough wall constructions, terraces, etc. From this
spot there are two trails in order to go down to Wiñaywayna;
one of them is projected almost horizontally towards the west
and then it descends abruptly to the next archaeological group
(this trail reaches also "Wayraqpunku" -Windy Doorway-
on a mountain pass, where there was a project in order to
build a modern hotel); that way is not used any more because
of the dangerous descent. The other trail, cleared up in 1983
goes down from the western end of this site, this one is a
flight having so many and very well built steps by the middle
of the thick forest where there is also another small tunnel
carved in the rock; by the end of this Inkan path there is
another dusty and zigzagging one built by those who raised
the electricity towers by the 1960s. Even lower is the Wiñaywayna
Visitors Center consisting in a group of concrete and red
roof buildings, that offers basic lodging and eating facilities;
however, it is possible to camp around here. Towards this
center's southeast is the Archaeological Group of the same
name that is practically hung over the Urubamba canyon.
Wiñaywayna is an important archaeological group near
Machupicchu, over an altitude of 2700 mts. (8860 ft.). It
was found by Paul Fejos in 1941, and subsequently in 1942
the Peruvian scholar Julio C. Tello baptized the site as "Wiñaywayna"
(Forever Young) after the Quechua name of an orchid specie
(Epidendrum crassilabium). The Epidendrum genus has here about
20 species of white, red, yellow or violet beautiful flowers
that are abundant in the zone; another very common genus is
Pleurothalis. In Wiñaywayna there are diverse buildings
among which is an upper semicircular one that is traditionally
known as the "palace" or the "tower",
built partially with carved stones. Towards the right side
of the descending stairway there is a range of 10 successive
ritual fountains that are classical in every important settlement.
Towards the north is the farming sector with a large amount
of artificial terraces; lower are some other buildings on
the precipice's edge with "pirka" type walls from
where there is a nice view of the mountains' lower part and
the valley. Toward the northeast of Wiñaywayna and
in an upper level is Intipata (Spot of the Sun); an archaeological
site formed mainly by agricultural terraces. Down, in the
valley's bottom, on Km. 107 of the railway Qosqo-Quillabamba
is the dam for the Machupicchu Hydroelectric Power Plant,
constructed between 1958 to 1962. From that dam there are
a couple of 3 Km. long tunnels drilled in the Machupicchu
granite mountain; they carry the water of the Urubamba River
to the other side of the mountain in the San Miguel sector.
Taking advantage of the difference in altitude the water is
transformed in 110,000 KW of electric power, for the Qosqo
and Puno departments. Near the dam is the Archaeological Group
of Choquesuysuy (Gold-ore Sifter) that includes some few buildings
and farming terraces.
The last tract of the hike from Wiñaywayna is through
an impressive somewhat horizontal trail, carved in the mountain
face in which on the right side there are deep precipices.
Almost by the end of the relatively flat trail there is a
stairway arising in order to finally get to Intipunku (Sun
Gate), located on the pass over an altitude of 2650 mts. (8700
ft.). From Intipunku you will get for the first time a panoramic
view of Machupicchu. In the Inkan Society this must have been
something like a watchtower and customhouse in order to enable
checking those wanting to enter Machupicchu, as well as for
its protection.